Tuesday, September 19, 2006

Tales From Romania, Part 2

We stood in places where, less than 2 decades ago, the citizens of Bucharest rose up in rebellion and overthrew the oppressive government. Some died as heroes, and life changed for the better.

Romania under Communism was like an encounter with a skunk: it's taking a long time to get rid of the stink. In some neighborhoods huge ugly blocks of apartment buildings stand where houses and mansions once stood. People were forced to move into them -- and not allowed to take their beloved pets with them. Today, stray dogs wander the streets as a result. Some buildings are scarred with bullet holes. Other buildings were designed as military enclaves.

Our guide, Tiberiu, told us stories about life under the regime of Nickolai Ceaucescue. While his people starved, he kept builders and workers busy around the clock building a huge palace -- the 2nd largest building in the world. No expense was spared -- the best materials that Romania could provide went into this senseless shrine.

There was only 1 and 1/2 hours of television each day. One hour of fabricated positive news about the government, and 1/2 hour of soldiers, workers, and women dressed up in folk costume pretending to sing, while songs praising Ceaucescue were dubbed over. People stood in long queues for hours, or maybe a whole day, just to buy a loaf of bread.

No contact with outsiders was allowed -- it could mean a 10 year prison sentence (a common punishment, meted out without a trial). You were expected to inform on your neighbors, co-workers, or even family & friends if they engaged in any suspicious or unapproved activities -- of which there were many.

Ceaucescue wanted to develop heavy industry, while Romania historically has been agricultural with some light industry. To create a large workforce, he banned all contraceptives and made abortions illegal. Large families were mandatory and enforced by heavy fines otherwise. The result: children orphaned by poor parents, living in the subway, and sniffing glue. (Take note: anti-abortionists). Women resorted to back alley abortions, and when botched, were forced to bleed to death in pain because doctors would face a severe prison sentence for treating them.

Despite all that suffering and strife, the Romanian people have demonstrated their perseverence and resilience. I was impressed by their will to survive.

Is there a lesson to be learned from their recent history? What happens when a government abandons its people for greed, and egotistical self-righteousness? Romanians can answer those questions for us with stories of their recent past,

Below: a building once notorious for police interrogations, now with a new look

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